Types of puncture
If you have just bounced off a rock or kerb and your
tyre deflates rapidly, the chances are that you have a “pinch
puncture/snakebite” These are the most difficult to repair as
the are generally two slits either side of inner tube. Otherwise the
puncture has probably been caused by a thorn, nail, glass etc. These
are slightly less obvious to find, but easier to repair.
Avoiding the problem
Glasgow MTB recommends that repairing tubes are best
done at home in the dry. Carry a spare inner tube, for all its size
and weight. This is a damn site easier that sitting at the side of the
trail in the pissing rain messing about with glue and patches. Most
punctures are caused by not having enough air in the tyre in the first
place. Make sure you check your pressures pre-ride.
Tackling the problem
The first thing to do is remove the wheel from the
bike. Put a little air back into the tyre and listen for any air hissing
out or bubbles forming on the rubber. Do a visual check of the tyre
looking for any thorns etc. sticking out. If there are any objects protruding
from the tyre, try to remove them now.
Removing the tyre.
First loosen the little nut on the top of the valve
(presta type) and let any remaining air out of the inner tube, this
makes the tyre easier to remove. Using your thumbs, push the tyre towards
the other side of the rim breaking any bead the tyre has. Now if you
are lucky, you will be able to slide the tyre from the rim pretty easily.
Unfortunately due to different tyre and rim combinations this is not
always achievable by hand. This is where a decent set of tyre levers
come in to play.
Prise the lever under the lip of the tyre and lever down using the rim.
Now hook the open end of the lever round a spoke (bet you didn’t
know what this was for). Use the other lever to get under the tyre a
few inches from the first lever, and the tyre should start to pop out
nicely from the rim. Usually the tyre will want to come off as soon
as you have levered a couple of inches from the rim..
Now completely remove the tyre. Loosen the lock nut and remove inner
tube.
Finding the puncture.
Do a visual on the tube, if you have a pinch puncture
you will not be long in finding the cuts. If not, put some air in the
tyre and listen for hissing or dook in a bucket/puddle and check for
air bubbles. Dry the punctured area off and mark with chalk for repairing.
Carefully run your hand round the inside surface of the tyre and feel
for any sharp thorns etc. Remove these, as they will only puncture your
inner tube again.
Repairing the puncture.
Basically fitting a patch goes like this.
1) Use the sandpaper to rough up the area round about
the hole, this helps the patch to stick. Ensure that the area rubbed
is larger than the patch. Make sure that you don’t lose sight
of the hole.
2) Peel the backing from the patch and stick centrally over the hole
ensuring that is not wrinkled and that the edges are pressed firmly
down.
3) Hold your thumb over the patch and smooth down for a couple of minutes.
4) Remove the outer plastic cover from the patch from the centre out
taking care not to lift the edges.
5) Blow up the tube and check for any leakage. If there is still air
coming out, check the patch and for other holes.
Refitting the tyre.
Double check that there are no objects protruding through
the inside of the tyre.
Place one edge of the tyre on the rim. Place the inner tube back inside
the tyre, place the valve through the hole on the rim and tighten the
lock nut just enough to stop the tube sliding back out.
Put a little air in the tube. Just enough for the tube to take a little
shape.
Now use your thumbs to seat the tyre back on to the rim. Be patient
as this can be a bit of a pain in the ar$e. However slack your tyre
may be, you will inevitably come to a point where you can no longer
push the tyre on. For this last section, you will again need to use
the tyre levers to lever the last couple of inches on to the rim. Do
not try to lever too much tyre on at a time. Take care not to pinch
the inner tube with the levers.
Blow up the tyres to the desired pressure ensuring
that the bead has seated all the way around. Refit wheel and off you
go.
Overview
Although these are a long set of instructions, please
remember they are only to get you started. As we have said before, once
you have fixed a couple of punctures you will not need these instructions.